Westies bark. A lot. They were bred as alert dogs whose job was to announce anything unusual. A westie that barks at the doorbell, at dogs walking past the window, at a delivery truck, and at that suspicious leaf is doing exactly what 200 years of breeding programmed them to do. You’re not going to train that out entirely. But you can manage it.
Normal Barking vs. Problem Barking
A westie that barks at the doorbell and stops after a minute is exhibiting normal breed behavior. A westie that barks at everything constantly, for extended periods, with increasing intensity, is usually under-stimulated.
Before concluding your westie is “just a barker,” ask: are they getting enough exercise? (45-60 minutes daily for adults.) Are they getting mental stimulation? (Puzzle feeders, training sessions, sniff walks.) Is there something in the environment triggering it? (Dogs visible through a window, noises from neighbors.)
A tired, mentally engaged westie barks less. Not zero, but noticeably less.
Management Strategies That Work
Environmental management. Close blinds or use window film if your westie barks at everything passing by the window. Use background noise (TV, music, white noise machine) to mask external sounds that trigger alert barking. Remove or block sightlines to whatever triggers the barking. This isn’t giving up on training – it’s removing unnecessary triggers while you work on the behavioral component.
“Thank you” and redirect. When your westie barks at something, acknowledge it calmly: “thank you” or “I hear it.” Then redirect them with a command they know (sit, come, find your toy). The acknowledgment tells them you’ve received the alert – which is what they’re trying to do. The redirect gives them something else to focus on. Over time, this shortens the barking episodes.
Don’t yell “quiet” or “no.” To your westie, you yelling sounds like you’re barking too. Now you’re both barking at the thing. That’s not a solution.
Reward silence. When your westie stops barking on their own, mark that moment with a treat or praise. You’re reinforcing the behavior you want (quiet) rather than only reacting to the behavior you don’t want (barking).
Increase exercise and enrichment. This alone can reduce barking by half in under-stimulated westies. More walks, more play, more puzzle feeders. A westie that’s physically tired and mentally satisfied has less energy and less motivation to bark at everything.
Barking Triggers and Specific Solutions
Doorbell/knocking: Train a “go to your place” command. When the doorbell rings, your westie goes to their bed or a specific spot. Reward heavily for going to the spot, not for barking. This takes consistent practice but it works.
Other dogs on walks: Increase distance from the trigger. If your westie barks at other dogs, you’re too close. Create more space, reward for calm behavior at the greater distance, and gradually decrease distance over weeks.
Left alone: Barking when alone may indicate separation anxiety, which is different from alert barking and needs a different approach. If your westie only barks excessively when you’re gone, talk to your vet about anxiety management.
What Doesn’t Work
Bark collars (shock, citronella, vibration). These suppress the symptom without addressing the cause, create anxiety, and can make barking worse in the long run. A stressed, anxious westie barks more, not less.
Punishment after the fact. If your westie barked while you were out and you come home to correct them, they have no idea what you’re correcting. They just know you came home angry. This damages trust without changing behavior.
Expecting zero barking. This will only frustrate you. Manage your expectations alongside managing the behavior.
For training methods that work with the westie brain, see our westie training guide. For the full picture of westie behavior and temperament, see our westie temperament guide.
Watch: Sami’s Story
Our experience with Sami becoming reactive after being attacked off-leash:
